LES INSPIRATIONS

LINGERIE TRENDS SEEN AT FASHION WEEK

 

There was a time when lingerie was barely visible beneath a blouse buttoned to the collar. This season, it has emerged from the shadows.

During the Autumn-Winter 2026-2027 fashion shows, presented in February and March in Milan and Paris, bras, camisoles, and slips left the privacy of the bedroom. They have made their way into ready-to-wear silhouettes.

The idea is no longer to reveal skin, but to offer a glimpse of what is usually kept to oneself. Three trends stand out clearly on the runways, and Maison Lejaby observes them through the eyes of a corsetry expert.

The bra, the new it-piece on the runways

In Paris, the bra is no longer hidden: it is shown, with intention. It can be seen beneath an open shirt, under a blazer worn against the skin, or behind a sheer jacket. Tom Ford, Mame Kurogouchi, Schiaparelli, and Saint Laurent have made it one of the guiding themes of their collections. The gesture is by no means provocative. The intimate piece becomes a style element in its own right, just like a piece of jewelry or a belt.

This trend was not born in March, either. As early as the end of 2025, the specialized press cited Maison Lejaby among the houses that make an exposed bra a sign of confidence, alongside Coperni, Mugler, and Prada. Nothing surprising for a House that, for nearly a century, has designed pieces made to be worn, and sometimes seen.

How to wear it every day

To embrace the trend without overdoing it, it is all a matter of contrast. Under an XXL blazer, a lace bra softens the rigor of the suit. Layered under a sheer shirt, it creates a play of depth while remaining understated. With high-waisted trousers, it elongates the silhouette.

However, one rule applies: a piece intended to be seen must be impeccable, in its construction as well as its finishing. The Midnight Fever line, which combines tulle and guipure, was designed with this in mind. Delicate enough to be revealed, it remains structured enough to hold the silhouette.

Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana, Saint Laurent, Autumn-Winter 2026-2027 ©

The return of boudoir glamour: dresses, slips, and satin

Another strong signal of the season: sleepwear ventures out in broad daylight. Designers have drawn from the boudoir and brought back dressing gowns, nightshirts, and lingerie-inspired dresses. At Dior, black velvet dresses up a piece tailored for the evening. At Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, a belted coat borrows its line from a dressing gown. This is the whole principle of the pyjama dressing: pieces designed for intimacy, worn with the confidence of an outfit for the city.

The slip and camisole follow the same path. At Rabanne, they are layered over a turtleneck. At Stella McCartney, they meet denim. Long confined to the bedroom, satin is becoming an everyday fabric, provided you play with contrasts: a thick knit, a masculine-inspired jacket, a flat boot.

This rediscovered glamour naturally complements the House's universe. Maison Lejaby's slips and kimonos slip under a long coat or are belted like a dress. The pyjamas cross the threshold of the bedroom without hesitation. This winter, Silk'n Moon silk extends this movement with fluid and luminous silhouettes.

Sheerness, a balancing act between modesty and boldness

In Milan, sheerness has established itself layer by layer. Black lace, which covers as much as it reveals, dominated the collections of Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi. At Prada, deliberately worn materials revealed a sheer fabric underneath, as if the garment were revealing what it concealed.

The season is therefore not celebrating nudity, but the art of balance. Sheerness suggests; it never shows everything. It requires a precision of cut and a choice of materials that lingerie has mastered for a long time. Tulle that is too rigid marks the body, lace that is too loose loses its hold.

It is precisely on this balance that the workshops of Maison Lejaby work. The Nudité line delicately reveals the skin, while Nufit combines sheerness with the comfort of a stretch material. The House's sheer lingerie can be worn alone or under a fine shirt. As for the pieces in French lace, they bring the richness of a pattern to a more understated outfit.

Dolce & Gabbana fashion show, Autumn-Winter 2026-2027 © 

What we remember about Maison Lejaby

These three trends tell the same story: lingerie is no longer a secret, it is a style piece. For a design house like Maison Lejaby, this movement is no surprise. As early as the 1970s, its Liberty triangle bra accompanied the emancipation of women.

The runways above all remind us of one thing: lingerie intended to be seen must first be perfectly constructed. In the House's Lyon workshops, a bra brings together between 30 and 50 elements, assembled in 30 to 40 assembly steps. It is this corsetry expertise that allows a piece to go from underneath to on top without losing any of its fit. The House's iconic lines are the most beautiful demonstration of this.

An unapologetic bra, boudoir glamour, balanced sheerness: this winter, lingerie asserts itself as a centerpiece of the silhouette. It just has to be designed for that. With its Autumn-Winter 2026 "Rock and Folk" collection, Maison Lejaby creates sensual and confident pieces that find their place both under a garment and in plain sight. Discover the collection and choose the piece that will accompany your seasonal silhouettes.