With a designer
Behind the scenes at Camille D.
Welcome to the heart of Lyon's creativity ! Today, we have the privilege of entering the world of Camille Darde Martin , a passionate, self-taught jeweler working in her workshop-boutique located at 38 rue Auguste Compte , Lyon 2.
Join us as we discover Camille's creative soul, her creations, and her love of craftsmanship.
Photo credit @sabine_serrad
Camille, can you tell us about your beginnings, your career path, and what inspired you to launch your jewelry line?
My beginnings as a jewelry designer began in New York. I spent 13 years in New York , I arrived there in 2008 and I worked in fashion . I always made jewelry, a little for myself, by assembling chains and threading beads, and then, little by little, I got into it and trained . My career path was rather classic, business school, several jobs in fashion, then leaving for New York. I felt the need to work with my own hands , it became obvious. I started freelancing , during the week as a stylist for photo shoots and on weekends, I sold my jewelry in markets.
How would you describe the distinctive style of your creations and what are your main sources of inspiration?
I've often been told that my designs are classic, "with a twist" , so quite wearable, but still distinctive . My big expertise is casting antique lace , it's really a specificity of my jewelry lines. My main sources of inspiration can be silhouettes in the street, images , a lot of Instagram content too, it can be furniture , staircases , architecture , other jewelry that makes me think of things I could create too, it's a big mix.
Photo credit @sabine_serrad
Can you tell us about the typical creative process, from design to completion of a piece of jewelry?
I rarely go through sketches or drawings, it's not really my strength. Personally, I approach the material directly by practicing lost wax casting . It all starts with the creation of a wax prototype that I sculpt with specialized tools until I obtain the desired shape. Then, the founder intervenes to cast the chosen metal . I recover the raw piece, rework it , polish it, then bring it back to him to make a mold. I then recover the pieces, called raw cast iron . The piece then requires a phase of repair and polishing , followed by the last step: gilding . Sometimes, it is also necessary to set one or more stones .
The city of Lyon seems to play an important role in your work. How does Lyon's environment influence your creations?
Lyon represents a return to my roots for me, having left at 17 and returned at the age of 40. I am rediscovering my city, I don't know if I am yet immersed enough in it for it to directly influence my creations, although it has an obvious impact on my well-being. I really like Lyon for its architecture, the Parc de la Tête d'Or, its gastronomy. I find that it has become very international too, I feel good there and therefore I create well .
Photo credit @sabine_serrad
What are the main materials you will use for your creations?
I work with a variety of materials in the creation of high-end costume jewelry and fine jewelry. I use 3-micron gold-plated brass , silver , lace , as well as gold , whether traditional 18-carat or 9-carat , less pure, but more affordable. The process and tools are the same whether it is silver or 18-carat gold.
Photo credit @sabine_serrad
Regarding sustainability, which is increasingly important in the fashion industry, how is this reflected in your approach to jewelry design?
I enjoy creating sustainable jewelry, repairing it as needed. The foundry I work with uses only recycled metals such as gold and silver, certified as recycled. My supplies in terms of chains, earring posts, etc., come from a well-established supplier in Lyon . For stones , recognizing the challenge of ethical stones, I source from trusted vendors who have extensive knowledge of their craft, sometimes visit the mines, and are familiar with the dealers they use.
Photo credit @sabine_serrad
Is there a piece of jewelry that you are particularly proud of or that has special meaning to you?
I particularly love the "Love Morse Code" bracelet that I wear every day. It's a model that has existed since my beginnings, it must have been 10 years since I created it . Initially, I hadn't planned to write "Love in Morse" on the bracelet when I created it. This idea came to me spontaneously , and being one of my first wax sculptures, I am attached to it.
Photo credit @nico_darde
What are your long-term plans for your jewelry brand?
My long-term plans are the same as my short- and medium-term plans . I opened my boutique-workshop almost 3 years ago in Lyon, and I am satisfied with its success. I would like to continue to make a living from my creations, developing collaborations to share my work. The idea is to maintain my high-end fantasy collections while extending my range to more high-end collections in 9 or 18 carat gold , embellished with fine and precious stones. Also, I am led to create more and more custom-made jewelry. Customers ask me to make them original and less conventional jewelry than what is found on the market. I carry out a lot of transformations of old jewelry , reusing the clients' stones and gold to design new jewelry for them that is both contemporary and timeless .
Photo credit @sabine_serrad
How do you handle challenges or obstacles that may arise in the world of creation and entrepreneurship?
Challenges and obstacles are constant , a daily reality. As a long-time freelancer, I'm used to this entrepreneurial aspect. I admit that I love looking for solutions, taking the challenges as they come . The only constraint that bothers me is time. I always find that I'm short on time . I would really like to spend more time creating, because indeed, in the life of an entrepreneur, there is everything behind the scenes.
Photo credit @nico_darde
What is your relationship with lingerie? What does Maison Lejaby mean to you?
When I was a student, my grandmother gave me a lot of old lace as well as braids and trimmings for sewing. I then worked in a trend and communication agency with various lingerie brands as clients, managing their advertising. This introduced me to the world of lingerie . Then, I worked for lingerie trade shows in Paris, Lyon and New York, I organized the fashion shows. I discovered many lace makers through the trade shows and that's also how my love of lace was born . Maison Lejaby evokes a French house, from Lyon moreover, a distinctive quality, a brand close to its customers offering models ensuring a certain comfort. Of course, corsetry, and more specifically lace, is a common point between our two brands, with the use of superb lace made in France.
Photo credit @sabine_serrad
Discover our products made from French lace .